A Stroll Through Kokoen » SIMONE ARMER

Just southwest of Himeji Castle, lies a beautiful Japanese garden that offers gorgeous views of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Kokoen is 3.5 hectares (8.5 acres) in size and consists of nine unique Edo Period-style gardens. It opened in 1992 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Himeji becoming a municipality.

The name “Kokoen” is a portmanteau of koen, meaning garden, and Kokodo, which was the school for samurai established by the last lord of Himeji Castle, Tadazumi Sakai. Kokoen is built on the former site of his west residence. The homes of high-ranking samurai were also located here, and some of the original passageways, built by Honda Tadatoki, were found during the excavations that took place prior to construction.

The design of Kokoen, supervised by Kyoto University’s Professor Makoto Nakamura, is based on the original layout of these historical residences and passageways. It consists of nine walled gardens that are all different in size and theme and connected by streams, waterfalls, and ponds. Traditional mud walls serve as passageways, with beautiful wooden gates marking the entrances to each garden. There’s also a traditional tea house, guest house, and restaurant on site.

The buildings and landscapes remain true to the Edo Period, so much so that Kokoen has being used as a filming location for several period dramas. It was featured in the popular TV series, The Unfettered Shogun (1978–2008), and, most recently, in Masato Harada’s Sekigahara (2017).

The biggest of Kokoen’s gardens, the Garden of the Lord’s Residence, features a large pond filled with over 200 carp. Next is the Garden of Seedlings, which has plants that were grown during the Edo Period. The Tea Ceremony Garden contains the tea house, Soujuan, where you can enjoy a cup of matcha and traditional Japanese sweets while enjoying views of Himeji Castle.

The Flatly Landscaped Garden is a country-style garden that comes to life in spring and autumn. Seasonal scenery is also on offer next door in the Garden of Summer, which boasts views of the castle keep. In the Garden of Pine Trees, you can see the white egret orchid, or sagiso, which blooms in summer and is the official flower of Himeji City.

Kokoen’s smallest garden, the Garden of Flowers, features flowers grown during the Edo Period and is most colorful during spring. Then there’s the Garden with a Hill and Pond, a traditional Japanese landscaped garden featuring—you guessed it—a hill and pond.

My favorite is the Garden of Bamboo, which features a variety of species and an arbor designed to look like a traditional Japanese umbrella. You can take a rest on one of the benches inside and enjoy a moment of silence and serenity.

If you’ve planned a visit to Himeji Castle, Kokoen is definitely worth adding to your itinerary. The garden offers a quiet reprieve from the bustling castle grounds and gorgeous views of the surrounding landscapes. Various events are also held throughout the year, including night illuminations and various plant and flower exhibitions.